Chocolate Safari® to Bruges Blog
This week I conducted my tenth chocolate safari® to Bruges. My goal: to educate people how to understand and enjoy chocolate whilst finding some of best chocolate in the world.
This group was mainly Foodies who wanted to learn to appreciate fine chocolates.
I often start my chocolate safari® with a history lesson either on the ferry from Hull or on the coach.
Telling how we discovered Cacao and how it has been tickling our taste buds for centuries: from the spicy drink in the Maya and Aztec civilizations to the popular sweet chocolate milk in Europe. Knowing that more than three people out of four love chocolate, it’s hardly surprising that there is an enormous fascination for this special treat.
Then we have a true sensory experience where we
Look, Touch, smell, and finally Taste the chocolate like a sommelier, to prepare the guest for their expedition ashore.
Bruges is where chocolate shops and beer halls compete for space on almost every cobblestone street and market square in this thoughtfully preserved medieval Belgian town, seduces tourists with aromas of cocoa and hops that waft into the streets, playing tug of war with your taste buds.
According to some cleaver people, chocolate and beer can actually be good for you (in moderation, of course.) But aside from the rare and random poisoning of a bishop, the museum is at pains to point out the healthful benefits of cocoa.
A display at the museum of chocolate tells us that chocolate won’t make you fat, give you spots, or rot your teeth. In fact, it says, it helps to prevent cavities and reduce cholesterol.
Chocolate can also come in handy for appeasing angry gods. Just ask the Mayans, who mixed it with blood as an offering—although personally, I prefer mine with strawberries from the Lindt shop.
Why Bruges?
The Belgium chocolate industry has an annual output of about 170,000 tons and boasts of over 2000 chocolate shops nationwide, It’s all about geography Bruges was once a trading port and being close to the chocolate pioneers Van Houten, Nestle, Peters, Lindt, close to the master engineers in Germany and the culinary expertise of France they soon brought all this together to make Bruges the spiritual home of chocolate.
The links between Bruges and cocoa go way back:
It began in the late middle Ages, when some of the city's families started to look for new products in which to trade. They already traded in sugar cane from Madeira, and when the Spanish conquistadors brought cocoa from the New World in the sixteenth century, they soon learned to mix it with sugar. And so began the first chapter of a long story to which new pages continue to be added today as its master chocolatiers create new treats and new ways are discovered to enjoy and use the age-old delight.
Why is Belgium chocolate considered Good?
Belgian chocolate is made exclusively with 100% cocoa butter unlike some cheaper confections and is famous for its pralines.
Like most products not all is great so ask questions and sample lots!
The Bruges swan
Another legend of Bruges is the Bruges swan (Brugsch Swaentje). its own official chocolate. The recipe is a secret, but amongst the ingredients are almond paste, ‘gruut’ (a local type of spiced flour) and ‘kletsekoppen’ (a local Bruges biscuit). Hardly surprising that this essentially local combination should most appeal to the taste-buds of the city’s inhabitants! It was created in January 2006, is sold in the shops of the city’s officially recognised confectioners, all of whom are members of the Bruges Chocolate Guild. The chocolate itself might be relatively young, but the legend on which it is based is centuries old.
At the end of the 15th century, the oppressed people of Bruges rose in revolt against the unpopular Emperor Maximilian of Austria. They captured Maximilian and imprisoned him in the Craenenburg House on the Market Square, together with his equally unpopular adviser, Pieter Lanckhals. Lanckhals was condemned to death and Maximilian was forced to watch the execution. The Emperor eventually escaped and later took his revenge: he decreed that ‘until the end of time’ the city should be required at its own expense to keep swans on all its lakes and canals. And why swans? Because swans have long necks – and the Dutch for ‘long neck’ is ‘lange hals’ – or ‘lanckhals’! And so a city legend was born…
Everyone wanted to visit the sights!
The Churches, Belfry, Burgh, Market Square and so on.
Then head up to Simon Stevin plein (near pizza hut) where you will find The Chocolate Line with its' celebrated, and more costly, works of art and unusual flavours of chocolate.
At the end of the square is a Dumon Chocolate shop and just down (10 metres) Mariastraat on the left side a great little shop called The Old Chocolate House who boast the best hot chocolate I will let you decide.
My favourite Bruges sights are from the Belfry and its climb, then a visit to the city’s Choco story the Chocolate Museum to get a background on the magical cocoa bean. You might be disappointed to learn that this is actually a museum devoted to cocoa, rather than a building made entirely of chocolate—although it does feature nearly life-sized chocolate statues of Barak Obama, Brussels’ and a giant chocolate egg.
The museum offers chocolate making demonstrations (and more importantly, tastings), as well as displays of antique tools and information on harvesting and processing cocoa. But the most interesting bits are about the history of chocolate and its various uses. The Mayans, for instance, used cocoa beans as money, and apparently, cocoa was so popular in Mexico in the 16th century that women even consumed it during Mass. After the bishop objected, he was murdered—from drinking poisoned cocoa.
In most shops the displays are fantastic but some are really special.
Bruges is a true chocolate lab thanks to over 50 expert chocolatiers, some long-established as well as other exciting new talents.
Madonna with Child at the Church of our Lady and, finally, the Basilica of the Holy Blood ...... and the Beer ...... and the Food ...... and the Meijses
I am not planning to tell you everything we found just where and hopefully you will enjoy Bruges for yourself as we did.
Enjoy
The Chocolate Museum (Choco-Story)Wijnzakstraat 2 (Sint-Jansplein) Bruges Tel: 050 61.22.37
www.choco-story.be
FAQ include ‘Where did chocolate originally come from?’, ‘How did it conquer Europe?’, ‘What’s the secret of great chocolate?’, ‘What role did the Industrial Revolution play in popularising chocolate?’, ‘Why was chocolate once used as a medicine?’
Choco-Story the Chocolate Museum answers these and other questions while bringing to life the 4000-year-old history of chocolate in words, pictures and flavours. The museum submerges you in the exciting world of chocolate and takes you on a journey of the senses through time. A feast for the eyes, but also for the nose and the taste buds!
The museum is in three sections, telling the story of the origin and evolution of chocolate through a unique collection of almost a thousand objects. Besides the history, the museum also reveals how chocolate is made, with special attention for the variety of raw ingredients and the development of the production process.
In the demonstration centre visitors uncover the secret of beautiful silky chocolate and get the opportunity to taste the chocolate products made in the museum.
I found it fascinating but it is always better with a tasting session at the end.
The Chocolate Line: 19 Simon Stevinplein (00 32 5034 1090)
http://www.thechocolateline.be/
Dominique Persoone, the Shock-O-Latier shop on Simon Stevinplein the square. Dominique has brought a range of unusual tastes to chocolate-making, marrying the complex cocoa bean with all sorts of unlikely flavours. His pairings sound imposable, until you try them. Havana Cigar? Sake? Oyster? Onion? Saffron Curry?. His marzipan with black-olive purée has to be eaten to be believed. He is one of the few Belgium chocolatiers to feature in the Michelin guide and The Chocolate Line, his HQ is on Simon Stevinplein,
I also bought his DVD: In search of the roots of cocoa in Mexico Master “chocolatier” Dominique Persoone, guides us through Mexico in search of the origins of cocoa.
Café Tasse Begijnof
a small chocolate shop near the Begijnof Inside it was clear that this shop caters for the tourist market it was nice and very busy.
Godiva Shop in Brugge Address Dijver 7 Brugge, 8000 www.godiva.be
Fabulous chocolate covered strawberries
The beginning of Godiva chocolates traces back to a 1920s chocolate- and sweet-making workshop owned and operated by the Draps family in Brussels, Belgium. Their “pralines,” typical Belgian filled chocolates, were sold in the large, highly fashionable shops. At the age of 14, Joseph Draps went into the family business. Over the years, he developed both his ability and creative talent as a master chocolate-maker as well as his business sense. He decided to create a prestige range of chocolates and to give it an evocative name. He chose “Godiva” and marketed his chocolates in instantly recognizable gold boxes. In recognition of its excellence, Godiva has been rewarded with an appointment as supplier to the Court of Belgium. Godiva continues to be an innovator in gourmet chocolate.
Roose chocolaterie, Steenstraat 47, 8000 Brugge
For 20 years, Chocolatier Roose has been the place to go for anyone who just wants a wonderful slab of chocolate. Original artisanal chocolate slabs that are richly sprinkled with ginger, papaya, strawberries, plums, fruits of the forest and even Smarties. True chocolate fans will opt for the half kilo slab, whilst the rest will stick to a prudent 100 grams. Whoever can't get enough chocolate can also immediately take a portion of home-made nougat. It is all a matter of effortlessly countering each craving.
Chocolat Oe Praline Wollestraat 6, 8000 Brugge 0472 52 01 84
http://www.pralinette.be/EN/Home
Chocolatier Dumon – Oostendestraat 99 - Torhout – Belgium Phone: 0032 50 22 16 22 - : http://www.chocolatierdumon.be/0032 50 222 333
I discovered Dumon. On my last trip and had to come back for more It is in a tiny 400-year-old brick building on the street directly behind Market Square, looking more like a cottage than the chocolate Utopia it turned out to be. Dumon has been in business only twenty years, which doesn’t seem like a very long time compared to some of the other shops, the chocolates are made by Stefan Dumon with the help of his wife Marie-Anne. His small family business consisting of just six have won several awards. Dumon chocolates are rare because they are produced with FRESH ingredients with no additives or preservatives.
Van Oost: Wollestraat 11 City Centre (00 32 50 33 14 54) http://users.skynet.be/fd004486/engels/index.htm
Situated in the shadow of the Belfry of Bruges, Chocolatier Van Oost is a small establishment with an excellent reputation for handmade pralines. It's on a hectic shopping street, and is easily overlooked – the best way to find it is to allow the scent of warm chocolate to lead the way. Once inside, accustom yourself to the rich displays then note the vats of molten chocolate being stirred out back in the workshop.
Galler 5, Steenstraat 8000 Bruges Phone :050/61.20.62
http://www.galler.com/
Jean Galler was born into a luxury dessert environment. He liked working in the family confectioner’s shop founded by his grandfather in 1930 and he has kept this passion since then.
At 16 years old, inspired by chocolate, he experiments this living material that fascinates him. To develop his knowledge and discover new savours, he studied in Basel (Switzerland), then with Gaston Lenôtre in Paris. At 21 years old, he launched his own enterprise. 35 years later, the foundations of the company remain the same: passion for chocolate; pride in perfection;
constant creativity. Spreads, bite-sized chocolates,…
Neuhaus Brugge Steenstraat 66 8000 Brugge T: +32(0)50-33-15-30
http://www.neuhauschocolates.com/en-us
Jean Neuhaus settled in Brussels and opened a pharmacy in the prestigious Galerie de la Reine. He covered his medicines in a layer of chocolate to make them more palatable. Jean Neuhaus Jr. expands his grandfather’s idea replacing the medicines with fresh cream, thus creating the first filled chocolate. He called it ‘praline’, which become an immediate success! I thought I’d try the sommeliers collection
The Chocolate Kiss Walplein 20, 8000 Brugge +32(0)50 61 61 50
http://www.thechocolatekiss.be/en/
We discovered this shop on Walplein. It has an excellent atmosphere and choice of chocolate. If you’re on a tight budget you will find some great chocolate on offer which is superb value. Staff were extremely friendly and were very interesting. We liked how quaint the shop was compared the larger Chocolate shops on the main streets in Bruges.
Stef’s Chocolatier, Breidelstraat 7 8000 Brugge Tel:050 33 25 45
Bruges is the perfect place to pick up chocolates and slightly less expensive than Brussels. Stef’s on Breidelstraat (between Markt and Burg) was a must visit and bought many gifts for family and friends. The chocolates are delicate and has a nice selection of milk, white, dark truffles, bon bons and creamy centres.
Verheecke Steenstraat
1919 in Bruges the family Verheecke started producing candy. Mid 70’s there came an original recipe for chocolate that until today has not changed. Chocolaterie Verheecke in the Steenstraat was established December 6 (St. Nicholas) in 1983 by the families Verheecke / Alfvoet and is to this day one of the largest chocolate shops in Bruges.
Moedeer Bablutte. Wollestraat 24 8000 Brugge
Tel.: 050/34 83 07
For the last 17 years we have been spoiling you with our delicious variety of homemade chocolates, cuberdons (raspberry jelly), Nougat, Truffles, chocolate seashells, Babelutten (buttertoffees)
The Old Chocolate House 1c Mariastraat, Brugge 8000 –
Tel: +32 50 340 102 http://www.oldchocolatehouse.com/
A family shop, run by Françoise Thomaes, has an extensive range of chocolate, and of artisanal cookies and gingerbread and a collection of pralines that marries the two perfectly.
The tearoom is a sure fire hit with tourists and Bruges residents alike try the hot chocolate.
Leonidas chocolate Steenstraat 4, 8000 Brugge, Belgium
Phone:+32 50 33 40 60
http://leonidasbelgianchocolates.co.uk/
There are a couple of Leonidas chocolate shops in Bruge. Made in Belgium since 1910, Leonidas is a Belgian company bearing the Greek name of its original founder, Leonidas Kesdekidis, who arrived in Brussels as a member of the Greek delegation of the United States for the International Exposition and won the Bronze Medal.
In 1935, Leonidas' nephew, Basile Kesdekidis, followed in his uncle's footsteps, and became the head of the company and incorporated the logo showing the effigy of the Greek warrior Leonidas, King of Sparta.